About mid-December of last year I bought a unit, and I decided yesterday that in order to enjoy riding this fall I really needed to get it installed and start tuning this week.  So, I guess I've been sitting on this thing for almost 8 months.  ...Did I set a record?  ;)

After work I went to my storage unit and did the following.

1. Read the Tuning MyECU and MyECU Optimizer Owners Manual.

2. Set the dip switches on MyECU to open loop (SW1 - On, the rest off)

3. Sealed up the unit with electrical tape and zip ties.  (Temporary fix)

4. Took a quick spin on my bike around the neighborhood as a reference before I started tuning.

5. Swapped the OEM ECU with the 15M MyECU.

6. Attached the ethernet cable to the MyECU and ran a line up to my handlebars.

7. Zip tied the Optimizer to the handlebars.

8. Secured loose/extra ethernet cable behind a side cover and to the bottom of the gas tank (I'll probably move the loose cable to the top of the tank due to potential heat issues for the cable)

9. Attached the ethernet cable to the MyECU...and fired up the bike!

I was very happy to see the bike start, run, and activity on the Optimizer.  Earlier I read in the instructions that MyECU doesn't normally come with a map installed.  Fortunately I had bought one of Cliffs old personal units, so it still had a map loaded to work with.  That's a really good thing since  at the moment I don't own a laptop/PC for installing maps and using the tuning software.  I've got a Mac laptop...but I'm a little reluctant to use it for a few reasons.  (BTW - If you have a Mac and you're using Cliff's software please chime in with any thoughts/suggestions)

Well at this point it was now dark and I really couldn't read the Optimizer.  Regardless, before putting away the bike for the night, I shifted the menu to Autotune and went for another spin.  Will Autotune really tune the bike without any input/adjustments from me? 

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks

Congrats. So you have a V11?

My Optmiser has a backlight, but apparently some hasn't, it's mentioned in the assembly instructions I think.

I run ECUControl.exe under Linux using Wine all the time, I guess something similar could be done with a Mac. The only thing I needed to do was link the virtual Windows serial port device to the real Linux device, using this command in a shell:
ln -s /dev/ttyUSB0 ~/.wine/dosdevices/com1

The Autotune will automatically tune the cruising parts (at least) of your map provided you have a wideband sensor installed and target voltages configured.

You should verify the sensor operation before going closed loop to find what voltage target is applicable.
Then run closed loop a while before using autotune.

I suggest you read the MyECU manual again
before any further tuning.
Lamda sensor tuning reqiure altering switches on PCB . 

As stated above,
no Autotune can be made w/o Lambda sensors attached.

Welcome aboard! ;)

I guess I need to read the instructions again?

So it seems everyone is suggesting I switch to closed loop for some initial tuning.  Hmm?  I'll read the guide again tonight, and I'll be spending most of the weekend tuning.  Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

BTW - I have a Moto Guzzi 2001 California Special.

Thanks!

First thing to do when you get the laptop going is make a backup of what you now have then put it away somewhere safe.
The maps self reproduce while you're not looking.
Before I knew where I was I had so many maps I didn't know where I was, luckily Raz came to the rescue  ;D
It's been several weeks now and I haven't needed a fix ::)

The weekend is finally here (well when I finish work in a few hours) and I'm ready see what MyECU will do, or at least what I can do with it. 

After re-reading the instructions, and a few of the comments I received on this post I'm a little confused?    In an effort of full disclosure...I really don't know what I'm doing.  (and I'm guessing by now it's obvious  :))  I've tuned cars and motorcycles that use carbs & points, but this is the first time I'll be tuning a fuel injected bike by myself.   Prior to this weekend I've watched and slightly assisted someone tune my bike using their laptop and the Moto Guzzi VDSTS software.  So, I'm sure I have a lot to learn, but you gotta start somewhere and I'm willing to get my hands dirty and give it a try.

The "Getting Started with MyECU" instructions tell me to do the following:

1. Install the ECU - Done
2. Adjust the TPS base - I'm currently at 106 (I might go a little lower to save fuel)
3. Adjust the Idle mixture - Will do this next.
4. ....but there's nothing listed after #4?

So to clear things up I want to ask if anyone can provide a very basic step-by-step of what I should do to get the ball rolling.  Here's the guide I'd like to create for the weekend.

Step 1 - Set the bike to _____ Loop.

(Open or Closed?  Please keep in mind I don't have a computer, only the Optimizer.  I can't download any new maps or make any adjustments using the tuning software.) 

Step 2 - Adjust the ______. 

- The appropriate range of values is between ___ and ____
- You'll know you've found the sweet spot when the bike does _______.

Step 3 - Adjust the ______.

- The appropriate range of values is between ___ and ____
- You'll know you've found the sweet spot when the bike does _______.

etc, etc, etc.

Well, once I cover these inital steps...how do I make additional adjustments, using the Optimizer, to clear up specific mixture problems within the map?

Once again a truly appreciate everyones help.

One other quick question before I sign off my computer and head home for the day.

Does anyone on this board have a good map for a 15M Moto Guzzi California?  Come to think of it...wouldn't a good Moto Guzzi V11 Sport map work just as well?  They both use a 15M and have the same engine.

I don't have a PC laptop, but I'm wondering if I can borrow a laptop or use my sisters desktop PC to download a map?

Anyway, any and all assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

I've made some updates to - http://www.cajinnovations.com/MyECU/FirstSteps.htm
Please feel free to offer improvements/suggestions, and for any other page for that matter.

Found a map for you to try its called Cali1100stock so may be ok for you, I think it came from Raz ?
Code:

RPM         500  1000  1500  2000  2500  3000  3501  4002  4501  5000  6000  7009  8012  8012  8012  8012 InjDur 14  5000 12464 12336 11872 11600 11168 11536 11088 11024 10768 13088 12768 12384 12384 12384 12384 InjDur 13  5000 12464 12336 11872 11600 11168 11536 11088 11024 10768 13088 12768 12384 12384 12384 12384 InjDur 12  5000 12464 12336 11872 11600 11168 11536 11088 11024 10768 13088 12768 12384 12384 12384 12384 InjDur 11  5000 12464 12336 11872 11600 11168 11536 11088 11024 10768 13088 12768 12384 12384 12384 12384 InjDur 10  5000 12272 12080 11600 11408 10848 11040 10896 10624 10448 11264 10864 11088 11088 11088 11088 InjDur 09  5000 11808 11616 11488 11008 10608 10416  9632  8640  8288  8800  8336  7872  7872  7872  7872 InjDur 08  5000  9024  8896  8656  8384  8032  8176 10000  7120  6064  5856  5504  5168  5168  5168  5168 InjDur 07  5000  9008  8640  8448  8096  8880  8000  7312  7328  5616  5568  5200  5024  5024  5024  5024 InjDur 06  5000  9088  8208  8016  7280  7728  7360  6016  6016  5600  5632  4608  4912  4912  4912  4912 InjDur 05  5000  8256  7632  7072  6976  6816  6352  5312  5936  4768  5600  4528  3856  3856  3856  3856 InjDur 04  5000  6496  6368  6672  5872  5792  5568  4912  5024  4544  4576  3968  3632  3632  3632  3632 InjDur 03  5000  5536  5424  5344  4944  4976  5280  4176  4192  4288  3616  3376  3328  3328  3328  3328 InjDur 02  5000  4880  4608  4320  4784  4368  4384  3296  3200  3728  3680  3488  3280  3280  3280  3280 InjDur 01  4500  4080  3872  3392  3232  2400  2432  2496  2400  2160  1984  1920  1920  1920  1920  1920 InjDur 00  4000  3392  3200  2944  2880  2160  2160  2192  1856  1792  1728  1728  1728  1728  1728  1728

Ign Map for the above
Code:

RPM         500  1000  1500  2000  2500  3000  3501  4002  4501  5000  6000  7009  8012  8012  8012  8012 SpkAdv 14  5.27 11.95 20.39 22.15 24.26 28.13 27.07 27.77 32.34 35.16 35.16 33.05 30.23 30.23 30.23 30.23 SpkAdv 13  5.27 11.95 20.39 22.15 24.26 28.13 27.07 27.77 32.34 35.16 35.16 33.05 30.23 30.23 30.23 30.23 SpkAdv 12  5.27 11.95 20.39 22.15 24.26 28.13 27.07 27.77 32.34 35.16 35.16 33.05 30.23 30.23 30.23 30.23 SpkAdv 11  5.27 11.95 20.39 22.15 24.26 28.13 27.07 27.77 32.34 35.16 35.16 33.05 30.23 30.23 30.23 30.23 SpkAdv 10  5.27 11.25 20.39 24.26 25.31 28.13 29.88 30.94 31.64 34.45 35.16 34.45 30.23 30.23 30.23 30.23 SpkAdv 09  5.27 10.20 18.63 22.85 25.31 29.53 30.94 30.59 32.34 34.80 35.16 35.16 31.29 31.29 31.29 31.29 SpkAdv 08  5.27 10.20 18.63 25.31 27.07 31.64 34.10 35.86 37.27 39.38 40.08 37.97 37.27 37.27 37.27 37.27 SpkAdv 07  5.27  9.14 16.17 22.50 25.31 30.59 33.75 36.21 38.67 39.73 41.13 40.08 39.38 39.38 39.38 39.38 SpkAdv 06  5.27  7.03 14.06 20.39 24.26 30.59 34.45 38.67 40.78 41.13 42.89 42.19 40.78 40.78 40.78 40.78 SpkAdv 05  5.27  5.27 13.71 20.39 23.20 31.29 36.21 40.78 42.19 43.24 44.30 43.24 42.89 42.89 42.89 42.89 SpkAdv 04  5.27  5.27 13.36 21.80 25.31 31.64 37.62 41.48 43.59 44.30 45.00 44.30 44.30 44.30 44.30 44.30 SpkAdv 03  5.27  5.27 12.66 22.50 26.72 34.10 39.38 43.24 44.65 45.00 45.70 44.65 44.65 44.65 44.65 44.65 SpkAdv 02  5.27  5.27 12.66 24.26 28.13 36.21 40.08 43.59 45.00 46.41 46.41 46.41 45.70 45.70 45.70 45.70 SpkAdv 01  5.27  5.27 12.66 25.31 29.18 36.21 41.48 44.30 46.41 47.11 47.11 46.76 46.41 46.41 46.41 46.41 SpkAdv 00  5.27  6.68  2.81  5.27 15.47 41.13 45.00 48.16 49.57 50.27 50.27 50.27 50.27 50.27 50.27 50.27

pasotibbs wrote on 08/16/10 at 17:38:13:

I think it came from Raz ?

If it did, I just passed it on from what was previously available (but not anymore?) on Cliff's web site.

I think a V11 (or 1100 Sport) map will do fine too. Perhaps a tad rich but that is the better side to err on.

raz wrote on 08/17/10 at 02:18:49:

pasotibbs wrote on 08/16/10 at 17:38:13: I think it came from Raz ? If it did, I just passed it on from what was previously available (but not anymore?) on Cliff's web site.

I may be wrong, but I can't think where else I'd have got it from  :)

Thanks for all the help!  The map will come in very handy.

I'm beginning to realize that doing all of my tuning with an Optimizer might be a little challenging.  I think it's possible, but definitely harder to visualize what's going on with the entire map.  After reading the instructions again it seems the Optimizer works best when used for tuning in Closed Loop, and having a lambda sensor onboard the bike.  Has anyone "temporarily" installed a lambda sensor and ridden a bike in Closed Loop, with an Optimizer, for tuning?  How did you do it??

Well, it seems I might have to buy an inexpensive laptop in order to really tune my bike well.  That's a real bummer...but I'm not real confident about my end results without a laptop.  If there's a way around this please let me know.  Prior to buying my Mac laptop, I owned an old Dell PC laptop which died a couple of years ago.  It has a RS232 port while many of the new computers don't, and I read that Cliff wrote the software to work with a RS232 port.  So keeping all of this all in mind...I'm trying to decide if I should fix my old computer or buy a cheap new/used one that works.  What's driving this question is my concern about how well these RS232 adapters work.  I've heard stories and seen challenges using these adapters.  My OEM ECU was tuned using an old laptop, VDSTS software, and an RS232 cable with an adapter.  While tuning we had many quirks and were always wondering if the problem was the old laptop, the RS232 adaptor, or the software.  Going with a computer that has RS232 at least removes one point of failure.  If you guys have a good product recommendation for a cheap laptop or RS232 adaptor that really works well great!  Please let me know.   

As you can tell I'm at a crossroads.  This weekend I figured out how to adjust the idle speed, but after that I was sorta stuck.  Thoughts and advice on lambda sensors and RS232 concerns will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again

I think you will need a computer to make changes. It doesn't have to be very new at all, an old one with Windows 2000 or XP will do just fine. Actually you will probably have less problems with that older computer than a brand new one, especially if it's equipped with a Windows version of about the same age.

A Wideband sensor (plus controller) is much fun if you like to tweak things but it can be $200 more of your money. Mine lasted 30,000 kms but I don't need a new one as my map is perfect long time ago (by the way, only the sensor itself is busted, I could get a new one for $30). Even if you go closed loop I would think you need a computer.

I used an Innovate LC-1 but there are other alternatives too of course. Maybe some cheaper too, I don't know really.

Edit: By the way, exactly what Mac laptop do you own? Chances are you can run ECUControl on it, one way or the other.

I have an about 10 years old Toshiba Tecra 8100, OS W98 8-).
Works perfect, you can find one for nothing, still auctions on eBay etc.
Must have connected it like 200 times w the 232 from Cliff w/o any issues.

Like Raz says any old laptop will do, I use old ones thrown away at work Pentium 3 1200Mhz is the fastest I've used, the slowest was a P2 400 but that was very slow with XP on!!
I'd say your minimum spec would be P3 800 with at least 256MB RAM, that will work but XP will jog rather than run  ;D
If you run 98 or 2000 it should be fine.

Thanks again for all the feedback!

I swapped emails with Cliff and he told me that Windows 7 should work fine, but also mentioned I could use an old laptop too.  So...I guess it's suposed to be all good?  Decisions, decisions, decisions.

If I went with a new laptop the cabling logistics would start with a USB port.  (It works through a USB port...right?)  If so, I guess I would need to build the following "franken-cable-connection".

A USB to serial port cable...connected to the serial port to ethernet adapter supplied with MyECU...connected to an ethernet cable....connected to MyECU.  Anyone on the board having success with this type of daisy-chain cabling, and using Windows 7? 

I think I now understand why many of you are just using an old laptop with the serial port built in.  A few less backwards conversions to worry about.

Last night I went to my local discount computer store and learned that I can pick up a new laptop, running Windows 7, for about $220 US.  That's a single core processor using DDR2 and 2-3 gigs of memory.  So, it's not the latest and greatest specs but will be a heck of a lot fast than an old beater.  I also found out that the cost of a new motherboard for my dead Dell is around $150 US.   

Of guess I could pick up something second-hand but I keep wondering if I'd be buying someone elses second-hand problems, unless of course I find a NOS vintage laptop with XP? 

Well, it's kinda funny that in order to pursue advanced performance on my Guzzi...I might need to source an obsolete laptop!   ;) 

Once again I appreciate all the advice and will be surfing the web tonight for a cheap vintage laptop before buying something new and trying to make it backwards compatible.

Fwiw I have used several generic (whatever the store had in stock) usb-to-serial adapters with no problems. I once had weird problems and they ended up being caused by sync software for a pocket pc never really letting go of the port. Actually that never affected ECUControl, only the LC-1 (O2 sensor) programs iirc.

But if you can get yourself an old laptop with RS232 and set it up so it works fine, it will be more reliable in the long run as you wont use it for anything else. And native RS232 means less points of failure.

Right now I'm running wireless, Bluetooth. It's kinda experimental, search the forum. It has its share of problems but it works as good as anything and I got rid of meters of cables, USB adapters and the TTL-to-RS232 interface.

FYI - I'm headed down the vintage laptop route and thought I would post a list of laptops, with native RS232, that I found on a forum.

Dell Latitude D520
Dell Latitude D530
Dell Latitude D620
Dell Latitude D630
Dell Latitude D820
Dell Latitude D830

Dell E5500
Dell E5510

Dell Precision M2300
Dell Precision M4300

Toshiba Tecra M9
Toshiba Tecra M10
Toshiba Tecra A10
Toshiba Tecra A11
Toshiba Tecra S11

HP Compaq nc6320
HP Compaq nc8430

Fujitsu Lifebook E series
Fujitsu LifeBook E780

and of course there are more ...

Many in this list can still be bought new with Intel i3, i5, i7 CPUs and those older ones can be bought second hand for a fraction of the price.

I'm sure any one of them will do fine. The important thing is not to try to install a version of Windows that is newer than the hardware. That always end up being a ridiculously slow computer. Also, plenty of RAM (preferably the maximum amount you can fit inside it) is often way more rewarding than a powerful CPU.

If this PC buy is only f MyECU mapping,
buy the cheapest!

One w 128 RAM is as fast as a 512 one for the ECUControl 143, I`ve tested.

raz wrote on 08/21/10 at 01:45:27:

I'm sure any one of them will do fine. The important thing is not to try to install a version of Windows that is newer than the hardware. That always end up being a ridiculously slow computer. Also, plenty of RAM (preferably the maximum amount you can fit inside it) is often way more rewarding than a powerful CPU.

I've got a lead on an old Dell D630, running XP, that I should be able to pick up for about $50 US. Nice! 

You mentioned that I shouldn't install a version of Windows that is newer than the software.  Do you recommend Windows 98, 2000, or XP?  I have access to all three.

Maybe I should have said "use the Windows version that the computer was originally sold with". In fact, you may have problems finding a display driver for a much older version of Windows. If it comes with XP, that's probably fine.

Like Raz says try not to go too new with the O/S, I use XP because it supports USB sticks (for backing up maps) but Win98 will need drivers so can be a pain, W2k has the advantages of XP but runs ok on lower spec devices better.
One trick is if you install XP and don't intend using it for the internet don't add the service packs as it runs much faster without them.

I have a map that makes my 2003 Cali purr like a kitten.
Happy to share if you're interested...
I started with the map Cliff provided and only changed the mixture and spark timing. I didn't understand the rest of it so I haven't changed anything else...
Some fine tuning would definitely get some more out of it but it's as good as I can get it by the old 'seat of the pants' method & it runs better than any other Guzzi I've owned (including my sweet running '75 carbied  bitser)...
Let's face it - owning a Cali isn't about horsepower anyway... :)
Before starting I'd recommend you make sure your TPS is set up correctly (I mean the actual instrument on the bike, not the variable you load into the map - you can use the optimizer to do it). Also make sure your throttle bodies are well balanced.
If your bike has sat for any length of time, it may be worth having the injectors tested and cleaned too...

After that the best advice I can give is to keep the changes small & simple. Think about them before you do it, only change what you understand and ALWAYS make a backup first.
Good luck...

If you want to run Windows on your Mac, check out using VMware Fusion.  It's only $79.99.
Here is a link:
http://store.vmware.com/store/vmware/pd/productID.165310200/Currency.USD/?src=PaidSearch_10Q1_EBIZ_FUSION-NOR
At least that way, you only have to have one laptop.

lynno wrote on 09/05/10 at 18:26:06:

I have a map that makes my 2003 Cali purr like a kitten. Happy to share if you're interested... I started with the map Cliff provided and only changed the mixture and spark timing. I didn't understand the rest of it so I haven't changed anything else... Some fine tuning would definitely get some more out of it but it's as good as I can get it by the old 'seat of the pants' method & it runs better than any other Guzzi I've owned (including my sweet running '75 carbied  bitser)... Let's face it - owning a Cali isn't about horsepower anyway... :) Before starting I'd recommend you make sure your TPS is set up correctly (I mean the actual instrument on the bike, not the variable you load into the map - you can use the optimizer to do it). Also make sure your throttle bodies are well balanced. If your bike has sat for any length of time, it may be worth having the injectors tested and cleaned too... After that the best advice I can give is to keep the changes small & simple. Think about them before you do it, only change what you understand and ALWAYS make a backup first. Good luck...

I might take you up on that!  It would be a much faster way to get in the ballpark than starting from scratch. 

Unfortunately, work, life, and the ability to find a cheap laptop had this project on the back burner again.  Since I last posted I've found and passed on two old laptops.  Both seemed to be one boot-up away from biting the bullet.  Today I found a small computer shop in town that has plenty of vintage laptops for sale.  If they can hook me up I'll be back at it this weekend.  If not...I might have to break down and use my Mac.  

If anyone has a Macbook Pro, and you've got the software running well, tell me exactly what you're using. 

Thanks once again for the help

PS: Lynno - If you see this message let me know how to get in touch with you for the map.

I have run ecu software on my Macbook using http://www.parallels.com/ to host Vista. I was seriously under ram'd for a while and put poor performance down to either Parallels and/or Vista however adding a Gb to ram sorted out the performance issue.
It's a bit of a faff getting the usb / serial sorted but once you do it make a note of settings for future use. There was a time when Keyspan was the serial /usb doofer of choice however my local Maplin (N. American: Tandy / Radioshack equiv I guess) does a cheapish one for some £15 (~$20?).

I would also suggest NOT using Vista or 7 but Win 2000 or XP as recommended by Raz purely for economising on MacBook resources unless you need those hungry OSs for something else.

So for about $100 you should have usable system on the Mac.

I am lucky in that I have an old Tosh laptop which I use on my yacht as plotter, passage planner and entertainment box so it is used for ecu work too and has also benefited from a ram upgrade. The MacBook has had  usb/serials hanging off it with a usb in from an instrument multiplexer too on the boat. So - yes it is "doable" with most usb/serials.

If you want any more specifics PM me if you want.

Just for fun here is a pic from yesterdays run to the north west of Scotland. Air temp 12 deg C, dry roads, red deer roaring in the distance - barked back with the straight through pipes. Grin from ear to ear.http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=125561&l=8925774c65&id=100001354645069

I used the old Aussie bush method - pull the PC out of the study and cart it down to the workshop every time I have a tuning session.  :D
If nothing else it makes you think through every change very carefully before you go and do it... ' Got a sweet running Guzzi out of it all...

'Once I couldn't spell tight-arse, now I are one...'

raz wrote on 08/21/10 at 01:45:27:

I'm sure any one of them will do fine. The important thing is not to try to install a version of Windows that is newer than the hardware. (...)

It appears ECUController 1.50 will not run on Windows 98 computers (hey, that is a 12 year old operating system) so maybe we should say Windows XP is the minimum for now?

Is there an error message?

"This application needs a newer version of Windows"
my lap w w W98 SE says.

That must of happened when I changed compiler settings to use unicode. Probably not worth fixing so I guess Win2k is the new minimum or just NT

Modified version of an email I just sent to Cliff.  The website won't let me paste the whole note.
---------------------
Cliff,

Here's the current challenge.

A friend had two laptops that I could try, which I'll call Laptop A & B.

Laptop A - An HP that is about a year old, running Windows XP, and has a USB port which we would use for connectivity via a serial/RS232-to-USB adapter.
Laptop B - A older laptop (maybe also an HP) running Windows '98, and has a native serial/RS232 port.

Unfortunately, neither laptop could communicate successfully with MyECU.

Prior to using either laptop we performed the following tasks to insure functionality of MyECU, the ethernet cable, and the serial/RS232-to-ethernet adapter you supplied with the kit.

1.) Connected MyECU to the motorcycle.
2.) Connected an ethernet cable to MyECU and the Optimizer.
3.) Turned on the ignition and noticed readings, and updates, on MyECU within the Optimizer window.

So, I would think MyECU, the ethernet cable, and the serial/RS232-to-ethernet adapter are working properly.  Also, the serial/RS232-to-USB adapter, required for use with a newer laptop, has been used successfully for many years to operate VDSTS software to tune other motorcycles. 

Next we followed the communications set up directions and here are the properties we used.

Port Settings
- Bits Per Second - 38400
- Data Bits - 8
- Parity - None
- Stop Bits - 1
- Flow Control - None

Advanced Settings
- Com Port - 9

Also we rebooted both laptops as directed.

When we tried to verify the HyperTerminal on each laptop we noticed problems.  Instead of seeing an ongoing string of number values, as your directions indicate in the window, we saw the following:

Laptop A (HP, Windows XP, USB port) - A short string of letters, but stopped in less than one line
Laptop B (HP, Windows '98, Serial port) - A continuous string of letters, but no number values.   

As you can imagine, neither laptop is working.

Suggestions? 

The output is actually a hexadecimal string with a few special characters like =
The baud rate will be either 38k or 57k depending of you version of firmware.

With hyperterminal output will stop if a character is received. Hitting ENTER will resume output. You should be able to verify 2 way comms this way.

Did you configure ECUController to use the correct comm port as it defaults to com1

Cliff,

I thought the Bits Per Second, or Baud rate, was 38400 regardless?  Maybe that's one of the challenges?  Can you tell me which firmware version requires 57k?  I downloaded the software from your link.

Also, Laptop A (HP, running XP, using a serial/RS232-to-USB) never indicated 2-way communication.  Laptop B (HP, running Windows '98, with native serial/RS232) indicated 2-way communication because we could stop and start the data stream by hitting the spacebar and enter.

I didn't know the ECUController defaults to Com1?  Regardless, we configured the Port to Com9 for both laptops.

Well, at the this point you've indicated I might need an adjustment to the Baud rate.  Any other suggestions?  Since I'll be troubleshooting via long distance through emails and your discussion board I want make a good list of all the things I should double check.  I think I've covered most of the instructions to the letter, but I'm probably not quite as intuitive as some of your other customers.

Thanks once again

I have two USB-RS232 converters.  The one that works for me is made by KEYSPAN (www.keyspan.com). ; This was recommended to me by the manufacturer of the tuning software/adapter I use for my Buell.  The other converter never worked properly with the MyECU.  I am running WinXP SP2 on my Compaq laptop.  I also can run ECUController 150 under SuSE Linux 11.3 using Wine.  There is a thread elsewhere on this site that tells how to do it.

ECUcontroller150 was the first version that ran at 57K.
You need to use the version of ECUController that I emailed you when you received MyECU.
It looks like Laptop B is the closest to working although I seemed to have lost the ability of ECUController to work on win98 with ver 150 onwards.

Cliff,

Unfortunately, I didn't get a copy of the software originally in my kit.  No problem.  You provided me the links below to download it and that's what I'm using.

http://www.cajinnovations.com/ECUControl145.exe.zip
or
http://www.cajinnovations.com/ECUControl145.exe

Should this version use a Baud rate of 38K or 57K?

That will use 38K

Cliff,

Ok, well it seems I was running the right 38k Baud rate for both laptops. 

If the serial/RS232-to-USB adapter is good, and the Com port was reset...what else am I missing?

Ensure 2 way comms with hyperterminal.
Set ECUController to use the correct comm port. That should be all.

Keep the comm port number less than 10. Your com9 should be ok.  This was because windows treats them differently above 10.

If that doesn't work try making the USB comm number
a low number < 6 by going into the usb driver's properties.

For what it's worth I had lots of problems with com ports until I dactivated some PocketPC ActiveSync stuff that apparently locked the ports.

I was helping Atlanta Guzzi on this a bit.

On the XP laptop, I set the Belkin USB-232 adapter to use port 9. In hyperterminal, at 38k, we would see 3 or 4 hex characters at a time. I would press a key and the data would stop. I could not find a key that would get a restart. I tried a different generic USB-232 adapter (I recall it loaded a "Prolific" driver.) It acted exactly the same. I also tried com6.

I then tried an older laptop with Win 98. It has a native 232 port at I believe it is com3. At 38k, hyperterminal displayed a longer string of maybe 20 characters, mostly numerics. Again pressing a key stopped the data. Nothing would restart it.

In both cases, the ECUcontroller software showed no activity.
Also, when setting the COM port in the ECUcontroller software, the colon is needed, correct?

Generally, what does the data look like? I have some RS232 port monitoring software somewhere that I may try to find.

Something not quite right with the XP. You should be getting the longer lines.

Yes : is needed in specifying the port.

This page talks about the protocol.
http://www.cajinnovations.com/MyECU/My16M_Comm_protocol.html

You should see 3 different lines being repeated.

You can use hyperteminal to record the data.

Just as an experiment try ECUController 143. You can just modify the original link I gave.

WO wrote on 11/25/10 at 23:50:13:

Generally, what does the data look like? I have some RS232 port monitoring software somewhere that I may try to find.

Like this:
=3123E02BD4900040000000000040000000414056B
=00EE101FE03FE03DB01F7012D01E901D0
=112000016631915D33000000000000017605D007E
=3123E02BD4900040000000000040000000414056B
=00EE101FE03FE03DB01F7012D01E901D0
=112000016631915D33000000000000017605D007E
=3123E02BD4900040000000000040000000414056B
=00EE101FE03FE03DB01F7012D01E901D0
=112000016631915D33000000000000017605D007E
=3123E02BD4900040000000000040000000414056B
=00EE101FE03FE03DB01F7012D01E901D0
=112000016631915D33000000000000017605D007E

Quote:

Yes : is needed in specifying the port.

My home PC: Dell w XP SP3.
Have a Mini P8 w Bluetooth.

W both 150 & 150, I open ECUControl Config to check that the : are there.
It`s not, add it, close window.
Reopen, : is not there!
If I do something else first & reopen, no : .

In 143, : is there all the time.

Could there be a bug?

I tidied it up with  v150.

Trying to translate Cliff (again................)
for us lesser gifted.........


Quote:

I tidied it up with  v150.

Does that mean all I wrote above is wrong/cannot have happend?!?!?
What did you tidy up,
software for 150 and therefore the problem I described wont happend anymore?!?!?


Version 150 I got from Dk Mini owner & 151 I got from raz.

I really fail to see how my comment contradicts or validates what you say.

You must be reading between the lines.

I could see how the : could confuse things before so with 150 I removed the need for it. You can add it or not. The ECUController will ignore it.

Quote:

I could see how the : could confuse things before so with 150 I removed the need for it. You can add it or not. The ECUController will ignore it.

Thank you, perfect explanation,
I didn`t get that from "tidied it up".
That answer was too short and didn`t have enough info. Maybe perfecly clear f you but not f others.

_Cliff_ wrote on 11/26/10 at 06:37:49:

Something not quite right with the XP. You should be getting the longer lines. Yes : is needed in specifying the port. This page talks about the protocol. http://www.cajinnovations.com/MyECU/My16M_Comm_protocol.html You should see 3 different lines being repeated. You can use hyperteminal to record the data. Just as an experiment try ECUController 143. You can just modify the original link I gave.

Cliff  - The link you provided is for the 16M and I have a 15M.  Please confirm that all information regarding protocols is the same.

Also, please provide a link to the ECUController 143 software that you referenced.  I'm not sure how to modify the link to download a copy.

The 143 software may work, but as you can tell I've followed the core instructions and even attempted communication via two PCs with the recommended configurations ('98 with naive serial/RS232, XP with a USB-to-serial port adapter).

At this point...I think I really need a structured list of troubleshooting steps.  Please review the recent post by both me and WO and outline a plan.  I'm hopeful that with your help I can overcome this communication hurdle and actually see MyECU work. 

Thanks!

It is the same for the My15M.

http://www.cajinnovations.com/ECUControl143.exe.zip
or
http://www.cajinnovations.com/ECUControl143.exe

The win98 PC sounds closest to working so you should stick with that one.

Serial comms has always been a pain but it isn't rocket science.
I'm at a loss as to what you're missing given that the 2 way comms test appears to be working.
I think if you throw a bunch of characters at the ECU with hyperterminal then hit enter. It should come back with inv cmd and an echo of what you sent. You can use that to see if it see the right data.

Cliff,

It's been a few months and I finally have time to work on this project again.  And at this point...I truly mean project. 

As a refresher, I attempted to connect to MyECU using your software with two different computers.

A) One year old HP laptop running XP and using a USB to serial port adapter.
B) An older HP laptop running Windows '98 with a native RS232 port.

Both the USB to serial port adapter and the RS232 port adapter have proven to work on other programs and applications, specifically VDSTS software designed to tune motorcycles.

A friend and I configured everything as you suggested for both laptops, using your manual/instructions, but was never able to make proper communications with MyECU.  You told me that the computer running Windows '98 seemed to be closer to making a connection...so keep trying with it.  The last suggestion was to use an older version of your software, v143.  In this thread you mentioned that modifications/updates to the software in v150 may be causing some communications issues.  Really?

If I have two laptops that meet the best specifications for good communications, and both are configured according to your preferences, but neither one works I have to consider the problem could also be within the ECU.  Of course it could be an issue of matching the right version of your software to the specific combination of computer port, operating system, and cabling method, so maybe I need a detailed matrix to crack the code?  Just kidding...but I'm halfway serious.

I'll reach out to my friend to see if he will let me borrow his Windows 98 computer and cabling.  If so I'll give it another shot.  With this in mind, please tell me exactly how everything should be configured using the v143 software.

If this doesn't work I plan to ship the ECU to someone on the board and see if they can download a file with their computer setup.

Thanks again for your help and I look forward to your instructions.

It's 32F (0C) in my garage right now, so I am not inclined to go out there and play with MyECU, but if it would help, I can send you my Keyspan USB-232 converter to try.  I have used it successfully with WinXP SP2, and Linux running a Windows emulator (Wine) on a Compaq Presario which is setup for dual boot, and the v1.50 software.  Send me a message with your email address and we can make arrangements.

You may be right. It should take that much effort to get it to talk. Send me the ECU and I'll check it out for you for just the postage cost. Send the Optimiser also if you have one and I'll upgrade you to the latest also.



My addess details are
CAJ Innovations
P.O. Box 310
West Pennant Hills
NSW
2125
Australia

Here's where I have to make a confession, that maybe can help.

Note: I'm not suggesting that anyone else is as big an idiot as I am, just offering this for consideration. I bought the kit version and assembled it, soldered everything up and with some help got it going.

I'd never really looked at the network connector card too closely aside from soldering the cap's. The chip was installed.

I incorrectly assumed the chip was soldered in (no, I don't know why I'd thought that would be the one thing you soldered in for me). It wasn't until I had connection problems that I found it was just inserted and not soldered.

I'm also using two computers, one running XP and another Vista. Both of the computers are quite fussy about how they are connected to the ECU. I have to power down the computer, hook up the cabling, regardless of whether it's via usb adapter or serial port, boot up the computer, software, and then turn on the ignition.

YaBB Administrator wrote on 02/23/11 at 05:03:28:

You may be right. It should take that much effort to get it to talk. Send me the ECU and I'll check it out for you for just the postage cost. Send the Optimiser also if you have one and I'll upgrade you to the latest also. My addess details are CAJ Innovations P.O. Box 310 West Pennant Hills NSW 2125 Australia

Cliff - Thanks for the offer!  I shipped you the ECU, Optimizer, and RS232-to-ethernet adapter today.

Also, I plan to email you a map that I would like to have downloaded to the ECU before you send it back to me.  One of the board members, Gerry Lynn, sent me a map that he's modified and tweaked over time for a Moto Guzzi California which seems to be working really well for him.  I'm not sure if he started with a baseline map from you, or came up with it on his own?  Regardless, it's where I where I would like to start my tuning adventure once everything is working correctly.  If this map is in the ballpark, maybe I'll be able to perform any potential minor adjustments needed using Optimizer?

Thanks once again and please post a note once you've received and tested everything.

Here's an update for all of you following along.

I shipped the ECU and Optimiser back to Cliff.  At this point he's tested the ECU and experienced the same communications problems I had noticed between the ECU and a laptop. Cliff indicated this was the first time he had seen one of his ECU's act this way...but at least it's good to know we're on the same page for diagnosing the problem.

Since then Cliff has graciously shipped me a successfully upgraded and tested ECU, and Optimiser, which I should receive some time this week.  This weekend I'll be able to plug it in and maybe tinker around with it using either the Optimiser or a laptop.  The friend of mine who has two laptops, that I mentioned previously in this thread, "might" be able to offer some assistance at some point but we'll see.  It's a considerable coordination effort for the two of us to get together, and I hate to impose and take up someone's afternoon to fiddle around with tuning my bike. 

So today my simple goal is to put the unit on my bike and be able to confirm a successfully working ECU, laptop software, and computer connection.  ...Finding the perfect tune can come with time.

I'll post again once I've tried everything out.

Thanks Cliff!

Good luck - hope it all goes well.

Houston....we have lift off!

I'm happy to say that the new/reworked ECU is working well!  No communication problems and I was even able to upload another map to the ECU.  Unfortunately, my bike was not a fan of the new map that I uploaded so I'll revert back to the one Cliff sent me as a baseline.  If anyone has a great map for a completely stock Moto Guzzi California, using a 15M, please let me know.

Now that I've finally joined the ranks of people using a MyECU, I'm curious how many people took the next step and installed a O2 sensor to run Closed Loop?  Over the weekend I got a slightly better education about the benefits of Closed Loop, and I'm seriously considering taking on the challenge.  For the people that have tried it, and had success, could you answer the following.

1. What O2 sensor did you use?
2. Do you need a special wiring harness and does Cliff provide it?
3. In Closed Loop mode will O2 sensor work with the ECU to permanently adjust the map, as needed, to the best settings?

As an obvious novice about this, I get the impression that running Closed Loop is a great way to speed up the tuning process and run your bike at the best map settings.

All thoughts and advice are greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Very happy to hear your success.

I'm one of the guys who've gone with O2 sensors. To answer your questions,

1. I used the Innovate LC-1 wideband sensor.
2. I used the wiring harness that came with the LC-1. Nothing else is needed except a 3 pin connector that probably came with your unit.
3. In my limited experience, the O2 sensor will work with the ecu to dial in the mixture to reach the A/F ratio that you choose. This works well in conditions where the throttle position and rpm are steady. The combo is not intended to help where conditions are changing repidly.

Feel free to ask anything else.

pete

I also used the LC-1, but I went nuts and installed one in each header.  I would hesitate to recommend that option.  First of all, you have to guess at which input on the MyECU is left, and which is right.  Second, my exhaust system has an X-pipe to equalize the left an right sides, which your machine probably does not have.  Third, it was a challenge to get two LC-1 units to fit in the area under my seat.  Fourth, I made use of some unused pins in the MyECU connector to splice in the wiring.  I am not familiar with the M15 internals, so I can't help you there.  I have a '97 Sporti.  Don't get me wrong, Closed Loop is the way to go, and the LC-1 is a good way to do it, I just decided to make it as difficult as possible for myself.

Rat Patrol wrote on 04/12/11 at 10:20:05:

1. I used the Innovate LC-1 wideband sensor. 2. I used the wiring harness that came with the LC-1. Nothing else is needed except a 3 pin connector that probably came with your unit.

Ditto above - am looking to data logging as next step to make sense of it this summer.

Mad,

I've been using the Innovate DL-32. It's a bit of overkill, but works well.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks for the feedback on Closed Loop.

I checked the Innovate website, looked for the LC-1, and found the following.

LC-1+ Kit #1 - $299
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16239&cat=262&page=2

LC-1 Kit: OBD-II & Wideband AFR WiFi Interface - $349
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16325&cat=274&page=1

For roughly $50 more I might be able to use the second kit and monitor, or possibly make adjustments (not sure how it works yet), via my iPhone!  That could be cool.

Did you guys use either one of these kits? 

I used an LC-1 kit (my sensor seams dead now but it served well for 20,000 kms - the LC-1 itself is OK so I just need to buy the Bosch sensor) and I did the logging with a laptop in tankbag and/or via bluetooth to a Windows Mobile.

There are two "kinds" of closed loop. If you just start the engine and ride away, with an Optimiser or not, your bike runs closed loop but the map is never modified. This works fine if the map is not too bad.

If you have the Optimiser you also have the "AutoTune" mode. This is where the closed loop correction actually modifies the map cells, if conditions are stable. You have to enable AutoTune each time, it's always off after starting the engine (and you might want to wait until engine has working temperature).

AutoTune works like a champ for fixing all cruising parts of the map and a little more, even with fairly bad maps from start. I've even had pretty good results with autotuning a good part of the WOT row. This is because at WOT (with correctly set breakpoints) you will have a rock steady "14.0" value for Row, making the decision easier for the AutoTune. Using a fairly high gear you will accelerate slow enough that a couple of map cells in the topmost row will be modified for each run.

Most other types of transition cells, like the ones used during (non-WOT) acceleration in lower gears will traverse the map too quick for the AutoTune to react. In fact you can even feel some kind of sluggishness because the CPU has its hand full (or something). This is where logging comes in. Go back to open loop, but with the sensor still reporting. Log a ride with varying conditions (I tend to log ordinary "inspired rides" on curvy roads, often one full hour). Process the log in one way or the other so you filter out what seems to be the best change for each given cell. Apply this to the map, start over. You wont need many iterations.

I just use the LC1 - the wifi/iPhone stuff wasn't out then. I would struggle to find room for much else at the arse end of the Sporti. The small tool pouch now resides in a rucsac.
It seems well made gear and is certainly well documented however there was issues over early units but can't remember if it was the sensor (bosch IIRC) or the electronics - the Innovate forum will probably have the info. There is an obsession over clean earths too thinking back a summer or two. If your mounting it my advice is work backwards on installing i.e. sensor first, as the sensor cable is just a bit tight for my liking - could have done with about 4 inches more. But that's what they all say! ::). I wanted to hide the sensor and cable as much as possible.
I'll post pics later - cannot get my head round how difficult it is on BBs!!

Many edits later...ah got the b.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_lM7EgaJwCrQ/TaSDmsRzq8I/AAAAAAAAAH8/q8aXZg7V7AU/s512/DSCF0004.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_lM7EgaJwCrQ/TaSDozUaRPI/AAAAAAAAAH8/DUPB3N_TH_4/s512/DSCF0005.JPG

Once again, thanks for the feedback!

Okay, it seems that I basically need to decide how many extra gadgets I want/need besides the basic LC-1 kit and learn how to wire it in.  So I have a few related questions below.

1. Several people on the board, and Cliff, have indicated that you connect/cable the LC-1 to the ECU using a 3 pin connector.  Did you have to splice it on the cabling you received from Innovate, and drill a hole in the ECU cover plate for the cable?  By looking at the MyECU assembly photos on the website, I think I found out that the 3 pin connector is probably plugged directly into the circuit board. 

2. Cliff also told me today that the ECU will log runs/rides, and all you need is a device to collect it.  Raz mentioned logging his rides was helpful to compare and change maps, and in theory it makes sense to me.  I've looked through the Owners Manual, but couldn't find information covering this feature.  Has anyone on the board recorded a ride just using the ECU and a collection device (laptop, netbook computer, PDA, etc.?) and how did you do it?

BTW, on another forum I heard about someone in the US who has a MyECU and used the Autotune function in Closed Loop to adjust their map.  They were very pleased, but said it took a while for the ECU to make all the adjustments.  To me, this is encouraging.  If I can speed up the process by learning a few tricks/steps from you guys...even better!




 

Atlanta,

1. I just fed the LC-1 wiring through a slit cut into the rubber plug on top of the ecu. Yes, the connector is plugged into the board. You will also need to run a network cable to the ecu to log, I did that through the plug also.

2. I have logged just using the ecu feeding directly into a laptop. It's a bit complicated to explain, but if you go over into the advanced forum on here and look for any threads with "Logging" in the title you'll find all the info you need.

I use the open loop with logging to dial my map in pretty close, then run in closed loop to fine tune it. this works for me. If you have the Optimiser, you can run in closed loop and have the corrections written into the ecu for you.

Rat Patrol wrote on 04/12/11 at 21:01:55:

I've been using the Innovate DL-32. It's a bit of overkill, but works well. Let me know if you have any questions.

Had a dekko at DL32 - its a tad expensive for me at the moment - bikes to road tax, sail boat to sort out and other sundry pre summer expenses so hopefully going the route of BT / Mobile Windows.
Raz - was it you that mentioned using this method - if so could you give me a few pointers. Maybe it was Cliff.

Thanks guys!

I believe you helped me tighten up my decisions in a few areas.  I looked at the logging threads in the Advanced User section and now I'll at least consider buying an Innovate kit that might help make logging maps an easier exercise.   Riding around with a laptop in your tank bag to log maps probably isn't the best concept for your safety...or the laptop's.  ;-)  But, I can tell some of you do it and it works.  Since I don't own a PDA, which would be much easier, I'll look into the possibilities of advanced Innovate kits.  Here are all the options.

LC-1 - $199 (The baseline of what you need)
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16169&cat=262&page=2

O2 Sensor kit with software.  The only way to log data is to use a laptop.

LM-2 - $349
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16321&cat=261&page=1

Includes the LC-1 plus a device for monitoring, logging, and making some adjustments.  Considered a hand held unit, and not intended to be permanently wired into your motorcycle (Tank bag material, but smaller than a laptop).

LC-1 + DL32 - $799
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16241&cat=262&page=1

It's 2 LC-1's and a device that does everything the LM-2 does, but is small enough to be wired on-board to your motorcycle full time.

As you can see the LM-2 is cheaper than the DL32 kit, but it's obvious bulky so you're back to a tank bag situation and will require a power source via a cigarette lighter dongle. Unfortunately the OT-2 kit, which talks to your iPhone that I mentioned earlier, is not an option for motorcycles today.

Well, of course...I could just buy the LC-1, hook up the Optimizer in Autotune mode, and try that first. 

Options, options, options.

Hmm?  Maybe the idea of a small, almost netbook sized, laptop in a tank bag isn't such a bad idea after all?  I still need a laptop anyway, and with all things considered it would be the least expensive route.

I have used LC-1 + LM-2.
Needs some foam (log unit) to work but not too fiddly.
Easy to apply, easy to log.
Gonna use them again this spring.
Analyze logs w Tuneboy & map w Tuneboy.
It can tell you how to adjust your Inj Dur to fit your A/F targets, f e!
And make own tuning tables w custom breaks etc.


http://www.tuneboy.com.au/

Mad Farquhar wrote on 04/14/11 at 20:29:24:

[quote author=5C5E434248494D592C0 link=1281536489/65#65 date=1302606115]hopefully going the route of BT / Mobile Windows. Raz - was it you that mentioned using this method - if so could you give me a few pointers. Maybe it was Cliff.

Cliff sells BT dongles that are plug'n'play with later firmwares. And there is a version of ECUController for Windows mobile.

The company that made the dongles went tits up though, hopefully Cliff still has one in stock?

Carl,
Still keep your stable full I see.
You'll be wanting another My15M for your V7. Can't help you with the Norge though.

Edit:

I meant Logworks, not Tune Boy in my earlier reply. 

And also confused about Modify function,
this reply has one it but my reply on page 5 hasn`t?!?

It's been a long time since I've been on this board, but I thought i would check in and provide an update.

As you all know I've made considerable efforts to get the ball rolling with MyECU.  When I finally reached a point where I could download new maps I had a local Guzzi Guru help me out as sanity check.  After a couple long saturday afternoons with several maps under my belt, I realized that the key to making this work is to start off with a good baseline map.  Unfortunately...there doesn't seem to be one available.  I tried all the maps that Cliff had to offer, and from some other board members as well, but they were either for other Guzzi models, used on a Guzzi California from a different year, or used on a bike that had been modified in some way.  Who knows why none of these maps worked?  The bikes could have different CAMS and other parts requiring different states of tune.  My bike is bone stock.

Anyway, I reached a point where I didn't have the time to commit to what was going to be a very long project of creating a map from scratch.  Then...I learned that someone in my area, who's posted on this board tonight as guzzisteve, had bought a MyECU! I decided to wait until he found a good baseline map that he might be willing to share.  So, I've been waiting.  Since guzzisteve posted a question tonight I thought I at least should post an update too.  Hopefully Cliff and the board can help guzzisteve.  In reality,  if you're helping guzzisteve you'll be helping me too because where ever he ends up will be a starting point for me.

Thanks in advance!

Perhaps I've misread, but GuzziSteve didn't ask a question. Instead he gave a progress update and from what I read is doing well.

I don't have access to my email atm so I can't recall the details of your progress or lack there of. I'll check again when I get home.

Edit:-
Ok checked all your emails and really there is nothing there that says how the bike is running or what you have done.
A year ago you were talking about going closed loop. Did that happen?
You also didn't have a laptop to use the ECUController. Do you have something now?

If you get a map from Steve you will need to be careful as he has MyP8. The first part of the Map is specific to the type of ECU. So bring up both maps in notepad and find the line that says "Prime". It's about line 50.
Everything from the Prime line down you can change with Steve's.

Have you checked that the air pressure, air temperature and oil temperature that are displayed in the Optimiser's Barometrics menu are correct?

Everyone,

It's been a long time since I posted, so I thought I would provide an update.  Let me respond to Cliff's thoughts.

If you read all the posts from the very beginning you'll notice that when I started this project I was told that I needed to acquire a vintage laptop with a vintage operating system to use the tuning software, plus acquire the right cable to communicate to the ECU.  That took a while!  Although some folks are running the tuning software on Vista or Windows 7 with varied success today, that wasn't the case when I started.  Regardless, I found an old laptop with the right operating system, the right cable, and proceeded to try to use the ECU.

Then I found out the ECU had an issue which you graciously fixed for an additional charge (At this point over a year had passed since I bought the ECU so I understand the expense...even though it had never really been used).

All the gear; laptop, operating software, and cable, were owned by a friend who's really sharp when it comes to Guzzi's and tuning, so we where able to get a handle on what the ECU could do in a short amount of time.  Very impressive!  The big decision was do I pursue Open Loop or Closed Loop tuning?  I headed down the Closed Loop path due to the baseline maps I found or received.  They were so bad on my bike that I thought I could spend months trying to tweak it in Open Loop.  Some of the members on this board have been down this long path. If I went Closed Loop, and used the Optimizer I bought from Cliff, plus added an O2 sensor to my exhaust, I should be able to ride the bike and it "practically-tunes-itself" (At least that's what I thought/think via several emails and suggestions).

Well, that means with Closed Loop I need to now buy an O2 sensor and bung to weld onto my exhaust, weld it, and then wire the sensor into my bike.  I'm hoping all of that would work...but once again it's more expense and time.

So...instead I'm just watching guzzisteve's efforts.

We'll see.

I am currently working on tuning my Buell XB9R, and in the process, discovered a Bluetooth module for connecting to my PDA.  Here is the link: http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10269 .  I have not received my order yet, so I will update you as to how it works later.  Also, there is some information about a USB to RS232 cable from FTDI at www.ecmspy.com.  FTDI makes multiple cables, but among them is one that is for 5V logic like the MyECU has.  Here is the link to the datasheet: http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/DataSheets/Cables/DS_USB_RS232_CABLES.pdf
  This is the cable I bought: TTL-232R-5V-WE.  It is available from DigiKey http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/TTL-232R-5V-WE/768-1029-ND/2003494 ; for way less money than I paid on the FTDI site.  The rest of the ECMSpy info is relative to Buells, so it can be ignored.

Atlanta Guzzi wrote on 06/28/12 at 00:07:57:

due to the baseline maps I found or received.  They were so bad on my bike that I thought I could spend months trying to tweak it in Open Loop.

The majority of MyECU users stay open loop and have no issues modifying the map to suit their bike.

All you have to do is take the current map, make a guess and go say 5 or 10% richer across the board. Try it and see if it is better or worse. If it is worse try leaner.
As your map improves you can move the focus to specific areas of the map rather than across the board and reduce the % change.
It should take less than 1/2 dozen rides to get something on par with the OEM ECU.
It should take days not months.
It's been over a year since you I fixed the ECU and you still seem to be at the first step.

WRT to "needing to purchase a vintage laptop with a vintage OS", the context was that any old laptop would do the job and you didn't need to go and buy a new one.

Cliff - Thank you for the quick feedback!

You're correct that I'm at the same place I was a year ago, although much more informed and aware of the hurdles and additional expenses ahead. I truly want to make sure I'm leaving a positive impression for everyone, but also be helpful with a balanced post.

Through this little journey I've learned two key things:

1.) The MyECU and software is a combination of tools that will give you the most flexibility possible with tuning your engine.  Truly the sky's the limit!  It's amazing all the things you can control and adjust with your engine.

2.) It's not a plug-and-play device designed for a novice.  You'll need to dedicate a considerable amount of time and effort learning what it can do, how to use it, and getting the proper equipment (laptop, cable, etc.) to tune correctly. Also, expect there may be some challenges setting up everything to communicate correctly.  Once again, being a novice when it comes to setting up this stuff up means some delays.

I definitely put myself in the novice category, so that's probably part of reason for my slow progress.  But, I do want to weigh-in that over time a general understanding can be attained for using it successfully. 

Unfortunately, the idea that most people have their bikes fine tuned in a few days or weeks does not seem very likely.  Who has the time to dedicate to this everyday?  Sure, some might get things sorted quickly, but I think it takes trial-and-effort through a learning curve after using the system.  Keep in mind, this is the opinion of a novice.  Someone who barely understood the difference between Open and Closed Loop when I started.  If you're like me the good news is you can get there, it just takes a while.

Also, the idea about using any old laptop...is wrong.  The posts in this thread by several members clearly show challenges if you're using certain OS systems, com ports, or cables.

I've learned that guzzisteve is now on map #76.  ...It just takes time.

Atlanta Guzzi wrote on 04/11/12 at 11:33:16:

.... that the key to making this work is to start off with a good baseline map.  Unfortunately...there doesn't seem to be one available. ....

I picked up one of your older postings. I say most, if not all, of the maps provided with the MyEcu or from other members should work acceptable also on your bike, the more as you say it's bone stock.
Using other peoples' maps requires that your bike has the same TPS setting (around 150 mV - look up this procedure in the shop manual) as theirs. Forget about cams or exhausts. Swapping the camshaft and/or the pipes ususally does not require changes to the stock map or WM ecu, for instance.
In case you've bought the MyEcu to cure any problems with your bike you're on the wrong trip. Go back to the OEM unit, properly tune your bike, and then give the MyEcu another try.

Hubert

I plucked a map off the site that should have been good, but worked poor.  Fortunately the Admin emailed me a much better map that runs great.

So....be careful of what you find when tramping around the site, looking at maps.

Joe

Be especially careful when taking a map from a different type of MyECU, eg a map from a MyP8 into a My16M as the first lines are configuration lines specific to the type.