To get new & accurate breaks f this, would the following be the correct procedure?

Loosen throttle stop screw so fully shut.
Mount a large (like 0.3 m) degree wheel on throttle cam.
Set idle TPS in MyECU to 0.
Note what Optimisers reads at the break points I want. Also measure mV f reference & reproduction.
When I later calibrated idle TPS, subtract that value from earlier Optimiser figures.
Done.

Am I missing something, more to think of, problems?
Hard to see f e 2.6 degrees I realize, but anyway.


Why?
Thinking of using newer injectors w spray pattern which requires other TB`s, some has linear TPS.
This mod has given more midrange, tested and mapped on Dyno by a reliable shop.

If you ponder the speces for your current TPS and the new one you should be able to work it out quicker in a spreadsheet. If you don't have the spec for the linear one it should be really easy to blueprint it yourself, as it's... linear!

The thing you are missing is that it makes no difference if the TPS is linear or log or has a kink along the way.
The bottom line is the TPS spans a certain range and you will adjust your throttle breakpoints to span this range and set the injector durations to suit.

I took it he want his current map to still be valid, that would need matching the breakpoints. On the other hand the new TB's would probably need lots of remapping anyway.

I don't think there is an easy correspondence for importing maps. There is the injector on times in my maps and what ever the oem has used that stops easy transfer.
I tried importing one before I added that table and the bike was unridable.

He's not importing a map. He replaces the TPS. He want to match the breakpoints so the map works as it did with the old TPS.

Quote:

He's not importing a map. He replaces the TPS. He want to match the breakpoints so the map works as it did with the old TPS.

Exactly.


Think I`ll still measure physically due to IRL proof, but raz,
can I find TPS specs somewhere?

My procedure for measuring is good?

Your procedure probably works just fine, it doesn't even have to be a degree wheel but just reference markings somewhere. Your map will benefit from some tweaking after the change anyway so it's not that important to get tenths of degrees right.

I might be missing something, but if the goal is to swap out TB's, injectors, and the TPS, aren't you going to have to remap the engine?

I can see wanting to get it close enough to run, but I'd be surprised if you didn't have to make significant changes. It shouldn't matter if the TPS reads .2 or .25 at 20% throttle as long as you adjust for proper A/F mixture.

Has anyone swopped out the 1100 Sporti TPS PF3C for a PF4 (HD item)? If so - apart from the cost was there any ill effects? Don't have to change but forewarned is forearmed. Due to my remoteness may get a cheaper PF4 anyway and try it / keep as spare.
Seasons greetings BTW - daylength here today is +22 seconds over yesterdays - always nice to see the days drawing out! ::)