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MyECU >> Getting started with MyECU >> More TPS setting.
https://www.cajinnovations.com.au/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1312814443

Message started by coldnorth on 08/09/11 at 00:40:43

Title: More TPS setting.
Post by coldnorth on 08/09/11 at 00:40:43
Hallo.
Is there any TPS gurus ot there?I have just made a test hook up to check the TPS value.I hooked up as discribed in the workshop manual,top and middel pin,and get a value of 5.86v?When mesured between top and bottom pin I get 785mv.This is just a test hookup at idle,no butterfly fully closed.The bike is a 1997 1100 sport ie.with a Power Commander connected.There is a connection from the bottom pin (red/black wire)to the Pow.Comm.Could it be that mesurement should be done between top and bottom pin?

Title: Re: More TPS setting.
Post by Luhbo on 08/09/11 at 04:29:01
The between top and bottom value makes more sense, albeit it might be a bit on the rich side (but I don't know what the 1100 Sport should have). At WOT you should see something below 5V.
Have you tried the middle and bottom pair also?

hubert

Title: Re: More TPS setting.
Post by coldnorth on 08/09/11 at 06:40:28
Hello luhbo.
I have not tried the middle/bottem pair.I'll do it now.I checked the WOT reading,got around 4,85v.What you say about the 785mv reading being a bit too rich seems to be correct as I have an arf sensor connected giving about 10,8 at idle.If I could get to know whitch pin on the ECU I should use for reading the tps, I could take it from the wireing diagram.

Title: Re: More TPS setting.
Post by coldnorth on 08/09/11 at 07:06:34
I have tried the middle/bottom pair.Gives me a start 4,28v at idle,dropping to 157mv wot.I go for the top/bottom pair what should be pin 16 and 30 on the ECU.

Title: Re: More TPS setting.
Post by Luhbo on 08/10/11 at 04:25:32
It should work then. Have fun.

Hubert

Title: Re: More TPS setting.
Post by YaBB Administrator on 08/10/11 at 07:43:57
The 3 wires are 0V, +5V, and the potentiometer wiper ( so must be between 0 and 5V ).

One could argue that at the negligible currents involved that there should be no voltage difference between the 0V and the frame/engine. Would some one like to confirm that?

Therefore if you attach the multimeter -ve terminal to the frame, there should be no confusion.

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