Kept it going till warm, getting familiar w/dials, buttons, modes.  Have to add 15% and set TPS factor for a 165mv base setting.

I spent my last 2 days off work playing w/numbers, trying out the Optimizer in Autotune. I did not change the FI physically or readjust the TPS physically, just put in the TPS readout that came up on the Optimizer readout. Took the bike out for a couple spins down the road. It ran crappy w/ Cali map I was sent so I tried a 1100 Sport map, ran better but pinged on accel.  Well, maybe I'll try turning off the Techlusion that was set for my stock ECU. It starts good cold but not so well warmed up, gotta add more numbers on that. This is alot like work. Worth it in the end.

guzzisteve wrote on 09/13/11 at 00:17:29:

maybe I'll try turning off the Techlusion that was set for my stock ECU.

Whazza Techlusion? [smiley=huh.gif]

edit: ok googled it - an "interfacey' sort of doohinky at first look....

You got it, just a fuel box. Got it working real good w/stock ecu. Shut it off today, more fiddlin in garage

I was just wondering if a map loaded in MyECU blends w/the one in there or replaces it?  Got to reread everything each time I fiddle.

Remove the Techlusion. That is just an unnecessary complication.

Where did you get the Sport map from? Did you replace the My16M configuration lines the MyP8 configuration lines?

I just copied & pasted the graphs on the bottom of raz's map onto mine.

I have the Techlusion hardwired onto ECU harness, all pots are off.

I also left my base TPS setting at 165mv so I can go back to stock box.

Today I added 15% fuel across the whole range to Cliffs base map, went for a ride to get operating temp so to set idle. Came back idling at 1500rpm, ok, turned idle stop screws out evenly w/carb sync sticks to drop it down, under 1300-1250 it dies.
Optimizer said to set TPS at 72 when it was at 0 on first start-up, did that.
Autotune said +15% for it to idle somewhat, added that.

What I am used to is turning a mixture pot, looking in my Colortune and making it a blue flame.  Maybe I can try this on Autotune!
I must be the only one w/98EV open exhaust & airbox using MyECU.

Send me a copy of the map you are using.
Check SW1 in ECU is on for open loop mode. You should have on,off,on,off.

As you drop it down, keep using the pot in autotune to find the sweet spot - 1/4 turn, tune, 1/4 turn, tune.

The map entries involved would be 0,1 0,2 and maybe 0,3 . I used to have a notch in the spark advance at 0,2. You might want to remove that if its still there. Check the injdur of those 3 cells also for continuity.

PS: I find it easier to slowly lean till it starts to falter then richen till smooth.
The other way is not as accurate.

Sw1 is on, rest are off. Should I have the coil sw on? Have not tried it yet.

Did you change Sw3? It should be on.

Looks like I've slipped up and not modified my web site with the latest owners manual. Give me a few minutes and I'll update it.

Edit: I've added a link to the new owners manual. You'll note the different wording for SW3.
The amazing thing is it runs so well with an inverted spark output. I've covered 1/2 km before realising something is not quite right.

Thanks for the update, v1.6b, I saw it right away today! Well, I fiddled a bit more, put in the lower TPS value. Had to run errands and warm up bike. Didn't want to idle so I added Autotune 10% fuel and it came back up. Got out on open road, steady throttle between 3-4K rpm, Autotune said it wanted 20% fuel, rode in Autotune w/o locking anything into the map. Back at home it wouldn't dial down to 1100rpm w/o dying.  OK, so now back to an older map (leaner) and I change SW3 to on. Started warm better, but was popping, coughing, blew off an injector body. Again on Autotune trying to adjust up idle, now TPS was getting near 100, running really bad. I shut it down.   

Can I run a Diagnostics log in open loop?

Your supposed to get the idle right and make adjustments to the map based on the changes you made for idle BEFORE you then go riding.

What gas sensor are you using?

Lets focus just on the idle for the moment.

I think my maps have closed loop disabled at idle and the entire row 0 ( via the flags table ). You may find the idle adjustment easier if you enable closed loop.

Also try setting the ECU TPS in the map high like 200. The ECU will see that the real throttle is less and just keep it on row 0 as you play with the idle screw. Closed loop will keep the mixture right.

So here are the steps I recommend.
1) Start with my Cali map
2) Set TPS line to 200
3) Set row 0 of flags table to 4.
3b) Optionally you may want to add 10% to row 0 injdur
4) Load map into ECU. SW1 off, SW3 on
5) Start bike and warm.
6) Keep optimiser on main menu and wait for closed loop to start
7) Adjust screws to get 1100-1200
8) Note the closed loop correction value and throttle setting and report.

Got kind of frustrated last night, had to walk away!

I am going to start all over again, from the beginning w/SW3 on.
I am still doing open loop.
Trying to save my starter by riding to warm up bike, I had already added 15-20% fuel based on the idle to the whole map.
Flags are still all 4's
I'll be on it again after I get home from work and follow what you suggested, Thanks so much!

Did like you said and had it idling at 1100-1150 with an 80 TPS value.
Made a new map w/15% fuel increase in 0.1 & 0.2, 10% in 0.3 and the new 80 TPS value. Got too late to run .  Tomorrow after work again.

Ended up working very well, am back down at 75 TPS at idle, changed my max rpm to what your map is.  I still have an area on slight decell I am working on,  Around  150-225 TPS and 3000rpm down to 1800rpm it is popping and more fuel made it louder.  If I chop it closed I don't get any popping at all.

On checking plugs after I switched the SW3 back on, this is what I noticed , the little carbon strip on porcelain that 1064cc motors get is 180* from where it was for 30K mi.. That is BIZZAR !!   This must be why it did not like it when I first switched it, it changed the burn.

Now, Did it do this because the polarity is reversed, or is it a northern hemisphere thing?  (our toilets spin opposite than AU) 

Not sure about the plugs. Inverted output would basically advance the spark by a fixed time ~4ms. This would be a different angle for different RPM.

Popping getting loader might be normal as you are added more fuel to pop with. It probably means you just need to add more again.

It is hard to find a strait & flat road that lasts for miles around here. 
Optimizer said 22% more, I added 10% cause I didn't want to get too far.   I added 10% more to the whole map at the start.
I haven't done any plug checks at different throttle settings yet, but at 1100 idle the Colortune showed a nice blue flame. I checked w/ Autotune on and 2% more would be too much.
I also didn't know if that spot was too much spark advance, which I haven't messed w/at all. I like to do one thing at a time.
I found a Dyno guy too, one of the best around here.

Would an O2 sensor automatically adjust fueling for my Mistrals & K+N open top airbox?     I'm saving up for one.

I added 20% to area and 10% around it, still backfires

Then 30% w/ same backfire.  Got to be spark adv.

Perhaps the backfire is not due to lean conditions.
Is the backfire better or worse. That's ambiguous isn't it? Is the area of the map affected, more or less

On the main Optimiser menu -
http://www.cajinnovations.com/MyECU/Optimiser_manual.html , which of the 3 displays are you seeing?

Dont want to presume however I had a case of injector blowing off initially when first playing with myECU and thus suspected a leak at the inlet rubber junctions so tightened the clamps up really tight - they were quite loose in hindsight.
Also heard that if you squirt some carb cleaner or similar at the rubbers you may detect a change if there is an induction leak. Never tried it myself. Just a thought - especially if you blew one off too.
I run my Sporti with K&Ns direct on injectors and have a set of open Lafranconis but prefer the originals cans at the moment. Believe Raz mentioned top end suffers without original air box gubbins on Sporti's - not sure if this impacts other m/c's. I may be tending towards that notion now too as I get more logging in. I used the space where airbox was for part of the optimiser (pcb) and will need to mod that if I do revert - winter job.

Another thing, if you are not noticing any changes you need to review your procedures for doing the changes. It could be you aren't changing what you think you are.

I am looking at the first screen on menu, for open loop.
I'm not ruling out that I'm not getting the right cells or I am using the right procedure.
On slowing slightly w/throttle, as rpm comes down I am watching rpm readout, it gets to 3K rpm, starts popping. Then I look at the TPS or throttle setting to see where it it at, it reads right around 200, as it slows in rpm the TPS reading is continuing down to 150 and a bit lower. Trying to do all this very slowly w/throttle hand.
Next I changed fueling in the cells above and below the 200 line of cells including 200 line and in between 3K rpm to 1700 rpm with global map adjust.
If I chop the throttle to completely closed at 3K rpm or any rpm there is no popping at all.
My intake boots are fairly new and I had snugged up clamps after the bodies blew off on coughing after I flipped the coil switch (has not done anything like that since) .
I won't have more time to tune till my next days off, Mon & Tues

YaBB Administrator wrote on 09/22/11 at 07:23:55:

Another thing, if you are not noticing any changes you need to review your procedures for doing the changes. It could be you aren't changing what you think you are.

Maybe the previous "cut and paste" includes line feeds and other invisible rich text stuff that makes the map unusable? I've been there and got that particular T-shirt. I use one text editor now for any mappy stuff - jEdit which I can get for both Mac and Windaes.

Ok, now I understand.  I think the last time I started all over I had used global adjust to make all changes but to a later map. I can go back to the original from Cliff again and only change it w/global adjust. Thank You

If you use the ECUController to make the make changes you should do a "diff" with the previous map just as a double check.
When doing the smaller changes I recommend just using notepad or similar to make the changes manually and using the ECUController just to upload and download the maps.

'diff' sounds great. Where can I find it?

Luhbo wrote on 09/23/11 at 23:31:39:

'diff' sounds great. Where can I find it?

The best I know is Meld but I haven't tried it under Windows (see this however).

Otherwise, just google "windows diff gui"

(the original "diff" command is found in any flavor of unix as well as cygwin or mingw but it's text-only)

Thank you. Thought it was an EcuControl feature :(

I've been using notepad for changes, just to be sure they are made.
I may have found the problem, will find out later. It seems w/I turned off the Techlusion fuel box for stock ecu, I had turned the pot for the rpm switchover from lower end fuelling to upper rpm fuelling to lowest setting instead of highest setting for off. It helps to retrace my steps, and now start all over.

Well, I'm at it again. This time w/better success.

Had to get a new puter.                                                  Started right up, couple funny spots to fix . Didn't run to bad.

Well, I'm on #37 map, added 30% fuel to the whole map, and additional some 40% more on the bottom. Kept the idle area what was working the best @ 61tps. Idles great at 1050-1100 rpm.  I started all over 3 times on 2 weekends, but am real close.  Now to do plug chops.

The last 2 days I have been basically running the same map and averaged 50mpg over freeway and back roads.

Still at it, adjusting just fuel.  Map #53, filling in that lean spot just off throttle. Figured out how to pin point exact place by going to mixture adjust on optimizer, then replicate bad area, hit button, it tells me where. And it was not where I was adding fuel, so, started all over again.

Got plans to go run & change on a dyno soon, just to cut out some of the fat in the mixture. 
More later.

Today's fiddlin paid off, it runs real sweet now. This last tank of fuel was still just under 50mpg. 

I see, you're hooked :)

I'm on #58 now, Got this hole @ 1.7, 1.8,0.7 wants gobs of gas. 
I'll be glad w/I'm done & finished on a dyno.

I must say it is most user friendly.

I thought I may be too rich at 40% across the entire map, Then under 3500-4000 another 30-40%
The plugs look great @ different tps settings & rpm
Power is super and gas mileage is better than stock ecu w/Techlusion fuel box.
Yea, guess I'm hooked

On map #67, still dumping fuel in the hole just off throttle, running real good. Just not wanting to pay for dyno time yet.

Let's see, 30 some maps the first time and now 67 maps and still going, I'll be glad w/done.

Well, Working on mapping again. Thinking it should not need 3 times the fuel, I made my ignition map from one in a stock 15M of of a California. Lots of fun converting degrees to Cliffs numbering system so I get close to the right rpm line.
Hope I did it right. I just compared WOT then took a same percentage off of that at each breakpoint on one map, then got the comparable rpm line from the other map. Where there was a gap, I just blended in some numbers.
Well, it starts right up and accelarates fine, better than before, will know more w/I ride it.