G'day all,

I know that this has been mentioned before and at the risk of being ridiculed for flogging a dead horse I will carry on.

Put MyECU, loaded with a 1100i map from Cliff, into my tractor today and what a different breast she has become. She is so much more enjoyable to ride around town and that soft spot around 4000 rpms is not as noticeable as before and the power seems more liner, this is only seat of the pants stuff but I reckon she could pull 2 ploughs now to halve the time it takes to plough the home paddock. :D

Not alls great though there still seems to be a slight  hesitation at 2500rpm, good thing is it's at only one spot so should be easy to remove and also it seems to take longer to warm up so you can blip the throttle with out it stumbling.

The other problem is with the ECU Controller program v1.51. My computer recogniser's were the USB cable is plugged into but I can't change the default comm number in the ECU config settings. I change it to number 9 press enter but when I open the config key again it has reverted to comm 1. Want to get this going so I can save the map in case something goes pear shaped.  :'(

Stinga

Try out "the Raz map" too  :)

It's in the maps section on this forum. Has worked fine for many but not all (it's tuned for stock air box with perforated lid, and following WHB on TPS and stuff but using 0.20/0.25 mm valve lash - or at least 0.15/0.20). There's even a Daytona RS running that map unchanged  8-)

Raz

Cheers Raz,

Uploaded your map into me tractor and I couldn't believe any  map could be better that the one that was installed in the MyECu when I got. But I was wrong your's made it even better around town and when it's idling the fumes are not as harsh as the other map.
Can putt around town now right down to 2000 or > rpm's to top of fourth with out the missing and farting like the original ECU.
Do have a slight problem with the idling, it idles beautifully @ 1200 and every so often it will labour and miss once then the rpm's drop to 900 and some time stalls :(. Maybe I will look at changing the valve lash to your first suggestion.
Anyway I am extremely happy with the way she runs at the moment, got a 1000 k trip coming up this week end so that will be a good test.

Anyway thanks again
Stinga

Stinga wrote on 04/26/12 at 20:32:50:

it idles beautifully @ 1200 and every so often it will labour and miss once then the rpm's drop to 900 and some time stalls :(. Maybe I will look at changing the valve lash to your first suggestion.

Rest assured this will disappear with just a little more valve lash. I once reproduced this back and forth a couple of times just to convince myself. These idle hickups are the most notorious symthoms.

Did my 1000 k road trip and it pissed down for about 200ks of it, the bike performed great just off idle and up to 3600 rpm then great once again after 3800rpm.
Every time I came to a stop the motor would sneeze then die, not good at lights, unless I blipped the throttle while stopping and between 3600 to 3800 rpms at 115 to 125ks as indicated by the vague lier or throttle position # 6 the motor would hesitate, stumble and a very slight miss. This only happens when only just enough throttle is used to maintain speed.

Got home and re-did everything

• reset TPS and balance as per book
  

• hooked up computer and set idle speed, ignore TPS number of running motor @ idle
  

• shut down motor note TPS number then enter this number into ECU config
  

After going through this procedure and changing the valve lash to 20 in and 25 ex the idle is now perfect and the fluffiness @ 3600 to 3800 has gone but motor starts to miss at 6000 rpm and will only get to 180 kph, and that took forever. My bike has done 110000 ks so maybe it needs a head job, who would knock back a good head job ah ;D

So I changed the valve lash to 15 in and 20 ex and the idle is still good, revs to 7000 rpm then misses but doin 210 ks by then and the fluffiness @ 3600 to 3800 throttle pos #6 has returned. So I think I will go back to factory specs on the valve lash and try to smooth out the fluffiness @ pos 6.
This ECU is the best thing that anyone with 1100 sport could do to save their gearbox and rear drive from self destruction caused by the snatching below 3000 rpm, I can now get down to 1800 rpm in top and roll the throttle on up to 210 ks without any protests from the drive line so smooooooooth 8-)

Do you own a wideband probe? If not then get one. It's a must if you want to do things seriously. Set every cell (but those at and around idle) to Lambda 0.96 and enjoy :)

Hubert