Houston....we have lift off!

I'm happy to say that the new/reworked ECU is working well!  No communication problems and I was even able to upload another map to the ECU.  Unfortunately, my bike was not a fan of the new map that I uploaded so I'll revert back to the one Cliff sent me as a baseline.  If anyone has a great map for a completely stock Moto Guzzi California, using a 15M, please let me know.

Now that I've finally joined the ranks of people using a MyECU, I'm curious how many people took the next step and installed a O2 sensor to run Closed Loop?  Over the weekend I got a slightly better education about the benefits of Closed Loop, and I'm seriously considering taking on the challenge.  For the people that have tried it, and had success, could you answer the following.

1. What O2 sensor did you use?
2. Do you need a special wiring harness and does Cliff provide it?
3. In Closed Loop mode will O2 sensor work with the ECU to permanently adjust the map, as needed, to the best settings?

As an obvious novice about this, I get the impression that running Closed Loop is a great way to speed up the tuning process and run your bike at the best map settings.

All thoughts and advice are greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

I also used the LC-1, but I went nuts and installed one in each header.  I would hesitate to recommend that option.  First of all, you have to guess at which input on the MyECU is left, and which is right.  Second, my exhaust system has an X-pipe to equalize the left an right sides, which your machine probably does not have.  Third, it was a challenge to get two LC-1 units to fit in the area under my seat.  Fourth, I made use of some unused pins in the MyECU connector to splice in the wiring.  I am not familiar with the M15 internals, so I can't help you there.  I have a '97 Sporti.  Don't get me wrong, Closed Loop is the way to go, and the LC-1 is a good way to do it, I just decided to make it as difficult as possible for myself.

Mad,

I've been using the Innovate DL-32. It's a bit of overkill, but works well.

Let me know if you have any questions.

I used an LC-1 kit (my sensor seams dead now but it served well for 20,000 kms - the LC-1 itself is OK so I just need to buy the Bosch sensor) and I did the logging with a laptop in tankbag and/or via bluetooth to a Windows Mobile.

There are two "kinds" of closed loop. If you just start the engine and ride away, with an Optimiser or not, your bike runs closed loop but the map is never modified. This works fine if the map is not too bad.

If you have the Optimiser you also have the "AutoTune" mode. This is where the closed loop correction actually modifies the map cells, if conditions are stable. You have to enable AutoTune each time, it's always off after starting the engine (and you might want to wait until engine has working temperature).

AutoTune works like a champ for fixing all cruising parts of the map and a little more, even with fairly bad maps from start. I've even had pretty good results with autotuning a good part of the WOT row. This is because at WOT (with correctly set breakpoints) you will have a rock steady "14.0" value for Row, making the decision easier for the AutoTune. Using a fairly high gear you will accelerate slow enough that a couple of map cells in the topmost row will be modified for each run.

Most other types of transition cells, like the ones used during (non-WOT) acceleration in lower gears will traverse the map too quick for the AutoTune to react. In fact you can even feel some kind of sluggishness because the CPU has its hand full (or something). This is where logging comes in. Go back to open loop, but with the sensor still reporting. Log a ride with varying conditions (I tend to log ordinary "inspired rides" on curvy roads, often one full hour). Process the log in one way or the other so you filter out what seems to be the best change for each given cell. Apply this to the map, start over. You wont need many iterations.

Once again, thanks for the feedback!

Okay, it seems that I basically need to decide how many extra gadgets I want/need besides the basic LC-1 kit and learn how to wire it in.  So I have a few related questions below.

1. Several people on the board, and Cliff, have indicated that you connect/cable the LC-1 to the ECU using a 3 pin connector.  Did you have to splice it on the cabling you received from Innovate, and drill a hole in the ECU cover plate for the cable?  By looking at the MyECU assembly photos on the website, I think I found out that the 3 pin connector is probably plugged directly into the circuit board. 

2. Cliff also told me today that the ECU will log runs/rides, and all you need is a device to collect it.  Raz mentioned logging his rides was helpful to compare and change maps, and in theory it makes sense to me.  I've looked through the Owners Manual, but couldn't find information covering this feature.  Has anyone on the board recorded a ride just using the ECU and a collection device (laptop, netbook computer, PDA, etc.?) and how did you do it?

BTW, on another forum I heard about someone in the US who has a MyECU and used the Autotune function in Closed Loop to adjust their map.  They were very pleased, but said it took a while for the ECU to make all the adjustments.  To me, this is encouraging.  If I can speed up the process by learning a few tricks/steps from you guys...even better!

Rat Patrol wrote on 04/12/11 at 21:01:55:


Had a dekko at DL32 - its a tad expensive for me at the moment - bikes to road tax, sail boat to sort out and other sundry pre summer expenses so hopefully going the route of BT / Mobile Windows.
Raz - was it you that mentioned using this method - if so could you give me a few pointers. Maybe it was Cliff.

I have used LC-1 + LM-2.
Needs some foam (log unit) to work but not too fiddly.
Easy to apply, easy to log.
Gonna use them again this spring.
Analyze logs w Tuneboy & map w Tuneboy.
It can tell you how to adjust your Inj Dur to fit your A/F targets, f e!
And make own tuning tables w custom breaks etc.


http://www.tuneboy.com.au/