Hi Guys, I don't disagree with you Hubert but we a have a different way of doing things, and if they get the job done, that's fine by me. I think Marko needs to find what works for him.
For sure don't want to start a big discussion on this forum...
For me prime pulse is just one phase of starting as above 500rpm the ecu reverts back to the map so that why my opinion that you need good values on your idle positions so you know you have one problem and not multiple. That is why I say is easier to sort your idle when the bike is hot and the start to work on your enrichment's over time. You know the bike runs and how much fuel it needs to idle.
Sorting the starts without knowing if the bike runs properly doesn't make sense to me but again different heads have different ways of seeing things...
I had a close look at the video the bike starts for a fraction and the dies. The reason the bike died in my opinion is not the prime pulse.
Actually in my view there are six parts of map that contribute to reliable starts and work on different parts of the starting procedure. You have to be methodical adjusting all these values.
The ones you say plus the 500 row,idle row, the after start enrichment and the permanent choke.

On my bike, I had to modify all this parts so bike doesn't die after 20 seconds...
Hubert, your procedure makes sense, but I've tried that and doesn't work for me.
If you think why you need a prime pulse in starting an engine, you will see your procedure may work on many occasions but not all...
When I tried something like you describe, I would get the bike to start, and think to myself, yes! nailed it, only to try to start the bike next day and fail!
The prime pulse need to be so big, first off all to compensate for any air in the fuel system, and because most of the fuel isn't burned when the intake and the valves are cold. These parts are cold and the fuel forms droplets that doesn't mix with air so to compensate this...